Where to climb
Following a request on the Forum pages, Tim Birch supplied the following information. I thought that it was worth a page all to its self. If you have anywhere to add to the list or more detail to the existing places, go to the Forum and add your comments. Go straight to this item in the Forum...
All the following are feasible (subject to local access conditions) for a day's climbing from Hastings.
1.Rock O' Nore on the doorstep, but not recommended. Crumbly, loose and dangerous Sandstone
2. Harrisons' Rocks, Bowles Rocks, High Rocks, Eridge Green Rocks (SSSI - check situation concerning bird nesting restrictions) all near Tunbridge Wells. 45mins drive. Good quality Sandstone lots of choice. Also Bulls Hollow Rocks, Ramsdyke Farm Rocks. Similar area, but less frequented and less choice.
3. Under Rocks near Mayfield. 45 mins drive. Virtually impossible to find unless you are shown. Good quality Sandstone, but not much choice, and not much under 5b, 5c.
4. Stone Farm Rocks near East Grinstead. 1 hours drive. Lovely location overlooking a lake. Lots of good quality Sandstone climbs at all grades, shorter climbs than for those near Tunbridge Wells.
5. Swanage. About 2 1/2 to 3 hours drive. Good quality Limestone. In several areas. All sea cliffs. Lots of choice, all grades, some two pitch climbs. Access usually by abseil, top can be a bit unstable with steep grass - can also be difficult to find good top belay points in places. Subliminal is easiest to reach - lots of choice across the grades, single pitch, popular and can get congested. Boulder Ruckle is higher and a lot more serious, but well worth visiting with 2 pitch routes, two or three Severes, nothing less, and a good choice of VS and HVS and above. Can feel intimidating on first visit. Cattle Troughs - a bit of a walk but reasonable choice of lower grade climbs. Guillemot Ledge - good choice of Severes to HVS. Dancing Ledges - Plenty of lower grade climbs, but generally short. Check for bird nesting restrictions.
6. Portland. About 3 hours drive. Mainly bolted routes, generally high grade.
7. Wintours Leap, near Chepstowe. About 3 to 3 1/2 hours drive. Limestone cliff above River Wye. Long routes, including some 3 and 4 pitch. Not much under Hard Severe, lots above. Rock can be a bit "iffy" and unstable in places. The nearest there is to Hastings for long multi-pitch climbing. Some "top out" in private gardens - tact required!
8. Wincliffe not far from Wintours Leap. Long walk in - 30 mins, uphill coming out! A delightful little Limestone Crag with several good quality one and two pitch Hard Severes and VS. Dirty steep earth at top requires care. For several years running the approach path was guarded by a nest inhabited by aggressive wasps - so proceed with caution!
9. Symonds Yat near Ross on Wye, about 3 to 3 1/2 hours drive. Limestone climbs of varying quality and difficulty. Popular venue, and polished. Tops can be dirty and require care.
10. Bristol Gorge. Fine Limestone cliffs. Some routes up to 4 pitches, lots of variety from Severe upwards, but popular routes have become very polished. Check access situation first as there have been climbing bans in force.
11. Cheddar Gorge. Fine Limestone cliffs, 2-4 pitches. Tend to be hard - HVS plus. Subject to changing situation concerning access, but climbing generally banned in holiday seasons and weekends due to traffic congestion caused by people watching, combined with risk of rocks falling on tourists.
