The White Mountain

It all became quite emotional, standing 4807m above sea level on top of the highest mountain in Western Europe. This attempt had been a huge strain, both physically and mentally and there was still the prospect of the long descent, but from 08.25am to 08.55am on August the 29 th 2002 we felt like Kings having conquered a major achievement and one we would not easily forget.

Two previous attempts in 1998 and 2001 had turned climbing Mont Blanc into an ambition. On those occasions the weather conditions, the route and the condition of the snow had meant turning back on both occasions. This time we were going by an easier route and a time of year that the weather was more likely to be favourable. This had the drawback that inevitably there would be numerous other attempts and the mountain could become a little crowded.

Nick had planned the preparation meticulously, unfortunately the weather and ice conditions were not good and meant large amounts of what was planned went out of the window. We spent the first day ascending and descending the Junction at 2642m. This was followed by a day at the Aguille du Midi (3795m) to gain a bit of altitude. We had planned to traverse the ridge from the Aguille, however with the howling wing, snow and visibility down to about 20m we spent just half an hour on the ridge before turning back. At this point the weather was very poor and if this were to continue an attempt to the summit of Mont Blanc would be futile.

To ascend Mont Blanc requires two days of good weather and to our good fortune the weather changed. We arose on the first morning to a clear sky and a clear view of the top, with binoculars we could see around 5 figures making their way up the final ridge, this added to our new found optimism which was very absent just 48 hours before. The six of us attempting the summit (Dick, Kevin, Kim, Nick, Monty and myself) managed to get ourselves organised and at the cable car station by 08.30, which, compared to previous days was an impressive feat in itself. A combination of cable car and train took us up to 2386m from where the remainder of the ascent would be on foot.

We began the climb to the Gouter Mountain hut (3863m) along with around 50 other mountaineers and a couple of Ibex, although they did not seem to be following the same path. This was an impressive route, which took us up a path with impressive view up the valley, across a small glacier and clambering up a superb scramble to the hut perched high above the rock face.

It was mid afternoon when we arrived at the hut to find it extremely crowded, with the first bit of decent weather in days it appeared everyone had the same idea of attempting Mont Blanc, but it should be OK as we had pre-booked the hut. However, pre-booking had not seemed to make any difference as our beds had already been sold to other customers, but they said they would see what they could do. There must have been 200 people trying to eat and sleep that night and although we did find a bed, we were sharing four beds between six, consequently an uncomfortable afternoon and night ensued. Very few got sleep due to altitude, heat and noise (which was added to be frequent visits to the downstairs lavatory, I seemed to go with an alarming regularity), although we were confident Nick did sleep as we all heard him. I lay wide-awake; cursing the fact I had left the earplugs at the campsite simply waiting for 02.00am to come along so we could get out of this little version of hell.

It was 01.30am and I may as well have had matchsticks keeping my eyes open for the amount of sleep I had. Numerous people were stirring at this time all wanting to be the first to get onto the snow, consequently everybody got up. Getting ready amongst all these people in a small space was a problem as was getting to breakfast, although we did eventually manage to get something to eat and drink, we began our ascent about 02.30am by torchlight and by the light of a full moon.

By not roping up on the lower slopes we thought we would move quicker, this was true, but we soon lost touch with each other and wasted time searching, so Dick, Kevin, Monty and myself decided to attached ourselves to each other. Kim and Nick had set off separately. The going was slow, but steady, as a long train had built up behind whomever was moving the slowest, it was difficult to go past people as this would mean treading a new path in the snow.

We continued over the Dome du Gouter at 4304m, it was around 05.30am and shortly before the Vallot refuge hut when Monty admitted that he could not continue and made the difficult decision to turn back, Dick also decided to retreat this point feeling the effects of the effort. I said that I wished to continue and turned to Kevin, who did not want to stop just yet and the group split with Kevin and myself remaining roped together. Unbeknown to us Nick and Kim had turned around about the same time al little further down the mountain, with exhaustion getting to them as well.

Slowly but surely Kevin and myself pushed on past Les Bosses and onwards up to the final ridge. Dawn broke around 06.30am, after another 30 minutes the effects of the last two days caught up with me and I began to really struggle and found myself at the head of chain, whom we let go past. The top was in sight and having got so close the thought of stopping was quickly eradicated. Kevin took over the lead up the final ridge an on to the summit. This ridge was narrow and passing people who were coming down wasn’t easy with a steep drop down both sides, this worry was soon to turn to elation as the peak crept up on us.

I asked for a time check, 08.25am came the reply and this was it we had reached the top. I turned to Kevin and being British we shook hands, both realising the achievement. There was no marking, flag or pole there and was a little difficult to work out the highest point, so we walked along the top to make sure. About 15-20 others were at the top when we arrived, we could see more struggling up from a few directions, one of whom we were later to find out was Mike Dennis who was coming up from the Aguille du Midi.

The view was impressive, one way we could see France, another Italy and the distance was Switzerland, looking down, we could see the Aguille du Midi and way below us beneath the clouds was the Chamonix valley. We sat down and tried to eat, it must have taken 15 minutes to scoff a small ham roll and my teeth were unlikely to make an impression on the Snickers bar. My water had turned mostly to ice, it wasn’t until now that I noticed how cold it really was.

Just 30 minutes was spent on top and although the goal had been achieved, will were all too aware that that there a large decent was in front of us, there was nowhere to go up from here. The going was still not very fast going down, as was easy to lose concentration and fall, I was also struggling with a bad headache and tiredness and walking felt like far to much effort. We sat next to the refuge and scoffed a couple of fig rolls, the Gouter hut was still 500m below us, it was 11.00am.

I sat on my arse a slid down a 1000ft; it seemed a lot easier then walking down. Whether is was the site of the hut, the fig roll, or most likely the change in altitude, but within 10 minutes of getting to the bottom of this hill my head cleared and energy levels rose. We reached the hut a celebrated with a bowl of hot chocolate and got ready for the remainder of the decent. Whilst putting the ice axe and crampons away my intentions were that these items of equipment were not to be used ever again.

The remaining decent, although long, was relatively easier in comparison to what we had done and became a race against the clock to catch the train down, which we did so at about 3.30pm. Now all that was left was to get back to the campsite and talk about the achievement with anyone who would listen.

Looking back, I must thank all those that were on the expedition with me without whom the attempt would not have been possible and in particular Kevin for getting my up the last metres. This will be an achievement and the realisation of an ambition I will never forget. Mont Blanc: been there, climbed that, purchase of the T-shirt not necessary.

On the way down Kevin said “This was the hardest thing I have ever done”, I would have to concur.

Nigel Copp